Buttermilk Fried Chicken With Cauliflower Puree
Sometimes we bite into a piece of fried chicken that changes the game. Our latest find: the buttermilk fried chicken at New York City's the Upsider. Prime Meats and Ko veteran David Colston explains his beautiful, crunchy, slightly complicated vision.
I wanted to create a moist fried chicken that embodies all aspects of flavor: sweet, sour, salty and savory. The chicken had to have an onion-like savoriness to it but still have bright herb notes, and the sauce had to act like a glaze for herbs to stick to. The dish plays with the maple syrup sweetness that many fried chicken dishes have, but this one has an Asian twist. Vadouvan curry also has a lot of dehydrated shallots in it, which pairs really well with chicken.
I think the charred ends of roast cauliflower lend a sort of bitter sweetness that balances out the fresh green herbs, and the addition of the blue cheese in the puree gives the dish depth. If you want to put your own spin on the recipe, you might want to add some smoked chipotle peppers or dried ancho chilies to give the dish a bit of a Southwestern flavor. You can also incorporate baby dried shrimp and dehydrated kimchi to make it a little more funky and Southeast Asian-inspired. These variations both work equally as well together. When you eat this dish on a hot day, pair it with a cold can of Asahi or a Negroni with a smoky mezcal substituted for the gin.
- 2 chickens
- 3 1/2 cups buttermilk
- 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
- 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon onion powder
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon celery salt
- 2 teaspoons salt
- 2 teaspoons ground black pepper
- 2/3 lemon
- 3 sprigs rosemary
- 3 sprigs thyme
- 6 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
- 2/3 cup cornstarch
- 1/2 cup smoked paprika
- 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
- 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons garlic powder
- 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons onion powder
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon celery salt
- 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons salt
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 1/3 cup sugar
- 1/3 cup glucose
- 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons water
- 2/3 stem lemongrass
- 1 dried ancho chile
- 2 kaffir lime leaves
- pinch of star anise
- pinch of cardamom
- pinch of cloves
- 1 small knob ginger
- 1/3 head garlic
- 1/2 cup soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon fish sauce
- 2 stems Thai basil or basil
- 2 stems cilantro
- 1 head cauliflower
- 1 carrot
- 1 stalk celery
- 1 medium onion
- 4 cups milk
- 3/4 cup Gorgonzola or any blue cheese (use rind or scraps)
- 1 tablespoon cold butter
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- Salt and pepper
- 2 heads cauliflower
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- Salt and pepper
- pomegranate seeds
- fresh herbs
- Vadouvan spice blend
- In a bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, paprika, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, celery salt, salt and black pepper.
- Add the lemon slices, rosemary and thyme.
- Place the chicken into the seasoned buttermilk mixture and marinate, refrigerated, overnight or for 2 days for best results.
- Mix together the all-purpose flour, cornstarch, smoked paprika, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, celery salt, salt and ground black pepper, and set aside.
- Drain the marinated chicken in a perforated pan or strainer and discard liquid. Remove the lemon slices and herbs.
- Dredge the chicken pieces in the prepared chicken flour and place on a sheet pan with a grate.
- Heat oil in a fryer to 325°F.
- Once the oil comes to temperature, place the chicken pieces in the oil and fry until dark golden brown. Remove from the oil and place back on the grate on the sheet pan to drain. Set aside.
- Put the sugar into a medium pot, and add only enough water to create a sandy consistency.
- Place the pot over high heat and shake the pot to melt the sugar evenly. Cook until the mixture is boiling and viscous, then remove from the heat.
- Add the lemongrass, ancho chile, kaffir lime leaves, star anise, cardamom, cloves, ginger and garlic to the sugar mixture. Let it sit for 10 minutes.
- After 10 minutes, slowly whisk in the soy sauce until the mixture is at the desired consistency and the taste is balanced. If needed, put the mixture over heat again to melt some of the sugar crystals and remove from heat once they have melted.
- Add the Thai basil and cilantro to the mixture and allow it to sit for another 10 to 15 minutes.
- Strain the mixture and let it cool.
- Roast the carrots, celery and onion in an oven at 350°F with a little extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper. On a separate tray, roast the cauliflower in a little bit of extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper.
- While roasting, combine the milk and water in a pot. Bring to almost a simmer and set aside.
- Add the onions, celery and carrots to a blender with the Gorgonzola. Add the milk and butter and puree this mixture on high. Season to taste.
- Increase the oven temperature to 500°F. While heating, toss the cauliflower florets with extra-virgin olive oil in a large bowl and season well.
- Cover a sheet pan with parchment paper and arrange the cauliflower on the pan in a single layer. Place in the oven and roast until the cauliflower is blackened slightly, rotating the pan once during the cooking process.
- Finish the chicken in the oven at 400°F until the internal temperature of the chicken is 160°F.
- Finish the dish with pomegranate seeds, fresh herbs and vadouvan spice.
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