Matcha: The Pastry Chef's New BFF
In June, Food Republic is counting the many reasons to love Asian food in America right now. Here's one of them.
Pastry chef Jen Yee grew up eating green tea ice cream, which gets its vibrant hue from matcha, a powdered form of green tea showing up in sweet and savory applications across the culinary world. A veteran of Charlie Palmer's Aureole and Shaun Hergatt's SHO, Yee is now pâtissiere (head pastry chef) at Andrew Carmellini's Lafayette Grand Café & Bakery in New York's Soho. Suffice it to say, she knows what's popular, what's about to be popular and what definitely should be popular. As a result, Yee incorporates matcha into dessert wherever she can.
"Matcha's always been on my back burner," Yee says. "Because of where I had been working, French and American places, it was never really a front-running ingredient. But now that matcha has this growing Western following, it think it's more approachable, and I have more freedom to work with it."
Chef Jen Yee by the pastry counter at Lafayette Grand Café & Bakery, in Soho, NYC. Photos by Clay Williams.
Why is matcha so popular now? The trend of healthier coffee alternatives is growing quickly, particularly among those who are sensitive to coffee. Matcha provides a caffeine buzz, but according to Yee, it's more even-keeled. "You won't get jittery and you won't crash from a dose as opposed to a coffee crash."
Interested in incorporating matcha into more of her pastry work, Yee consulted with the professionals. "I was speaking to a representative for a green tea company and asked her why matcha is so popular now," she says in the kitchen at Lafayette, where we photographed some of her go-to matcha recipes. "I've really only seen it in Japanese restaurants and Asian grocery stores, in ice cream and as a hot drink, but now you see it everywhere from savory risotto to breakfast smoothies."
Matcha comes in a very finely ground powder, which makes it a prime candidate for lots of culinary applications. "It dissolves well in any sort of moist environment," Yee attests. "You can replace some of the flour in noodle dough with matcha, which will give you a beautiful color and flavor. It might also add a little oil, because matcha has an oily fattiness to it that helps it incorporate."
What's the best part of this delightfully trendy ingredient? It's hard to choose just one, but consider the most forward attribute: its color. "Matcha does lend a nice chartreuse tint to things," says Yee, who has some advice on curbing your desire to add green pigment to everything you make. "If you get a little carried away with the matcha, or it overcooks and oxidizes, it turns a weird army green. But if you use it correctly, the color can be beautiful. For example, we incorporate matcha into our chocolate spray, then spray mousse with green tea chocolate and it takes on this almost — I don't even want to say it— but Kermit the frog green. It's a very pleasant, eye-catching effect without using any food coloring."
Go green with Jen Yee's matcha recipes to make at home and keep a can or two in the pantry (now that you know when you'll need it).
Matcha Chocolate Truffles
Prep Time: 35 minutes plus chilling time
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Serving Size: 4-6 as dessert
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Directions
Coconut Matcha Smoothie
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Serving Size: 2
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Directions
Matcha Yogurt Pops
Prep Time: 20 minutes plus freezing time
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Serving Size: 6 pops
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Directions