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Over the past few years, Los Angeles’ new wave of style-conscious food trucks have become icons of this Southern California city as recognizable as the Hollywood sign. Enterprising, fantastically diverse, emblazoned with tattoo-like truck wraps, they mirror the crowds that follow them on the street, and on Twitter. It’s been a while since “gourmet taco” ceased to be an oxymoron, but the tortilla-wrapped fusions of tastes and cultures, at once basic and innovative, still represent the best of the new food truck cuisine. Offering recess for the Southland’s cubicle workers, chefs’ tasting menus on the street, and some of the best stoner food around, here are five trucks leading the pack.