The Complicated History Of Budae Jjigae: Korea's Delicious Army Base Stew

Budae jjigae, or "Army Base Stew," is one of the most well-known and iconic modern Korean dishes. Giant pots of stew — ranging from this dish to Chinese hot pot — are nothing new in Asia, but this particular iteration has a unique history, with a heavy emphasis on the "Army" part of its name. We sat down with chef Maricel Gentile, author of "Maricel's Simply Asian Cookbook," to discuss the history of this dish and why it has endured as a homey staple food.

"After the Korean War[,] food was scarce[,] and this stew was born out of the need to be creative," Gentile says. "Locals would use surplus ingredients from the U.S. [military] — including SPAM, hot dogs, [and] canned beans. These ingredients were combined with traditional Korean seasonings and [kimchi]."

The disruption of traditional agricultural areas during the Korean War led to the widespread adoption of many American foods, much like how Korean fried chicken was first invented on the battlefield. However, dried and preserved foodstuffs were both beloved and readily available, resulting in an American-Korean fusion dish born out of necessity and sustained by love.

"What I think makes it so loved is [its] balance of bold flavors — savory, spicy, and a little smoky," Gentile continues. From galbi jjim to bulgogi, few cultures in the world are more adept than Korea at combining sweet and savory. In fact, it's this specific cultural palate that has allowed Army Base Stew to evolve so significantly.

Much like how SPAM's post-WWII popularity in the Philippines led to some of the most creative uses of the potted meat imaginable, the decades following the Korean War introduced some interesting changes to Army Base Stew. While there are countless amazing Korean recipes and stories, the ones surrounding this dish are quite unique and easily traced.

"Today[,] you can find everything from cheese to ramen noodles and seafood ... in the stew," Maricel Gentile says. "Some like extra gochujang (red chili paste) for a spicy kick, while others add perilla leaves for a herbal take." American cheese may be the secret ingredient you didn't know ramen needed, but Koreans have been aware of this fact for quite some time. And this cultural exchange doesn't just go one way — since processed American cheese was a ration staple for soldiers during the Korean War, we've even started using instant ramen noodles in grilled cheese!

Now that food scarcity is no longer an issue in Korea, it's not uncommon to see more traditionally beloved ingredients in budae jjigae. Umami-rich kelp-anchovy stock is a popular base that pairs excellently with sweet potato starch vermicelli, or glass noodles. While hot dogs and SPAM remain beloved additions, higher-quality cuts like pork belly or pig cheek have also found their place in the dish. All in all, budae jjigae is a classic case of cultural diffusion — bringing together beloved elements of two countries to create something entirely new.