The Bougie Spice Ina Garten Always Has On Hand
Ina Garten doesn't skimp when it comes to quality ingredients, always advising fans to use "good" products (like "good olive oil") on her "Barefoot Contessa" show and in her recipes. So when it comes to black pepper, she prefers a foodie favorite: Tellicherry black peppercorns. This prized variety of the essential spice is far more bougie than what's inside your average pre-filled pepper grinder.
Tellicherry black peppercorns from India are widely considered to be the highest grade available, valued for their milder heat and more complex taste compared to regular black peppercorns. Garten favors this variety and specifically calls for Tellicherries in some of her recipes, like her take on the classic pepper-forward Italian pasta dish cacio e pepe.
What makes these peppercorns such a standout? All black peppercorns come from the same source: The berries of the Piper nigrum tropical vining plant. Tellicherries are differentiated only by their size, but that size has an impact on their flavor, too. Tellicherry peppercorns are the biggest berries that can be found on the plant, at 4.25 millimeters or larger. The larger the corns, the less bold heat they have and more fragrant they are, giving Tellicherries a taste that has delicate citrusy, woodsy, fruity, and piney notes. At the top of the line are Tellicherry Special Extra Bold peppercorns, the largest available at 4.75 millimeters or bigger.
Where Tellicherry peppercorns come from and how to use them
Although the Piper nigrum black pepper plant is grown in tropical regions around the world, it is originally from India's southwestern Kerala state, where the port city of Thalassery is located. The Tellicherry peppercorn gets its name from what the city used to be called, as "Tellicherry" is the English form of Thalassery. While these peppercorns don't have to be grown there – the name may be used as long as they're the right size – the best and most authentic are said to be cultivated in Kerala's Malabar Coast.
Tellicherries are more expensive because only around 10 percent of black peppercorns grow that large, not to mention they're valued for their elevated flavor. If you're going to spend the extra money, you want to cook with the spice in a way that makes it shine. Highlight its complex flavor by using it in dishes where black pepper is a starring ingredient, like the aforementioned cacio e pepe (which happens to be Anthony Bourdain's favorite pasta dish). To get fancier, go with steak au poivre, with its pepper-crusted steak and creamy, brandy-spiked peppery sauce.
Tellicherries are also great in marinades or dry rubs for meats, creating a delicately flavorful crust. Or try something different and pair Tellicherry peppercorns with sweets, sprinkling the grounds on fresh fruit or vanilla ice cream. However you use it, make sure to freshly grind the pepper instead of using pre-ground to get the full flavor, and try toasting them too, as heat affects the flavor release of spices.