The Humble Thai Dish Jet Tila Says Is Underrated
Thai food is so much more than pad thai and panang curry, though those plates are undoubtedly delicious. There is a whole world of authentic Thai dishes out there that you may not be as familiar with if you have only eaten this cuisine outside of Thailand. Kai jeow moo sab is a perfect example and what chef Jet Tila calls "the most underrated Thai dish." As Tila explained at the New York City Food and Wine Festival, it is basically an egg and ground pork omelet that is seasoned with sugar, monosodium glutamate (MSG), and fish sauce.
However, kai jeow moo sab uses a very different technique than French- and American-style omelets, which are themselves different, and it is neither silky smooth nor firmly set and stuffed. Instead, this Thai-style omelet is deep-fried, which yields a crispy outside and impossibly fluffy inside. It comes in the shape of a puffy, slightly irregular circle. "You eat it with a fresh cooked bowl of jasmine rice," Tila said. "And that's every Thai person's childhood." If this dish sounds incredibly simple, you're right, but that is the beauty of it. "I think people overlook such a humble dish. It's so satisfying, and it's not fancy," Tila said.
Tips for making kai jeow moo sab
The unique texture of this Thai-style omelet is achieved by beating the eggs until very frothy. The ground pork and seasonings are also beaten together with the raw eggs so that they are well-distributed. This is a unique aspect of kai jeow moo sab — the pork is incorporated raw, and it cooks along with the eggs in the hot oil. The fat and natural juices from the pork intermingle with the eggs, creating a soft texture and uniquely savory taste.
A Thai-style omelet with ground pork is one of the most popular variations, but it can also be made with crab, shrimp, green onions, shallots, chiles, or basil. Really, you can use any vegetable or protein you like as long as it is finely chopped or grated so it cooks at the same rate as the egg.
It's also important to use a deep pan or wok so that the oil has some depth — about one inch or so. Heat the oil over a medium-high flame, and stream the egg mixture into the center of the pan. It should immediately bubble and puff. Once set, you should flip it with a large spatula or slotted spoon. The omelet will only take about 1 to 2 minutes to cook per side, after which you should let it drain briefly on paper towels. Serve with freshly steamed rice, sriracha for that distinctive Thai klom klom flavor, or prik nam pla (fresh chiles marinated in fish sauce).