Anthony Bourdain's Ultra-Rich Mashed Potatoes Were Inspired By A Famous Chef
Anthony Bourdain had a knack for cooking and a passion for eating, but he never described himself as one of the greats. He referred to himself as a cook instead of a chef, and he had no problem giving credit where credit was due. That is why it makes perfect sense that Anthony Bourdain's mashed potato recipe was inspired by the late, great chef Joël Robuchon.
Robuchon was known for his mastery of French cuisine and for receiving a whopping 32 Michelin stars. His technique used minimal ingredients and simple preparations. Famously, he told the New York Times in 1983, "What I want to be known for is a cuisine that is less heavy, but not necessarily less rich." Robuchon's widely lauded pommes purée (mashed potato) recipe exemplifies these philosophies perfectly.
These are not stodgy, weighty spuds, but rather a creamy delight. Bourdain's recipe adapts the preparation to be a bit less technically fussy, but it still stays true to the heart of the dish. Robuchon called for two parts potatoes to one part butter, milk, and salt, but Bourdain swapped the milk for heavy cream and reduced the amount of butter — some. Robuchon also boiled the potatoes with the skin on and then passed them through both a food mill and a very fine mesh sieve. Bourdain opted for peeling the potatoes before boiling and using arguably the best kitchen tool for mashing potatoes, a ricer, to achieve an ultra-creamy texture with much less fuss.
The best spuds for Anthony Bourdain's mashed potatoes
Aside from the ingredients and technique, choosing the right potatoes is also key for how the final mash turns out. Joël Robuchon's potato of choice was the La Ratte, as was true for many French chefs. They are waxy, densely textured, and small. However, the size can make these fussy to work with, and the firmness can be challenging to turn into a cohesive mash, which is why the chef required multiple passes of pureeing.
On the other hand, Anthony Bourdain's choice of larger Yukon Gold potatoes made sense for cooks in the United States as these are more widely available. They are also dense, firm, and neither too starchy nor waxy. As such, they are considered, by many people, to be the best potatoes for mashed potatoes.
Avoid common mistakes when making these mashed potatoes by cutting the raw, peeled potatoes into large, equally sized pieces. When the chunks are too small, they absorb too much liquid, resulting in a watery mash — and inconsistent pieces ensure that the potatoes will not cook evenly. Cover the potatoes in well-salted water, and bring the whole pot to temperature instead of dropping them into already boiling water, as this can affect how the spuds cook through. To keep the mash ultra-creamy, drain the potatoes well before ricing them and incorporating all that delicious butter and cream that makes Bourdain's take so perfect.