James Dean's Favorite Dessert Was A Take On A Southern Staple
James Dean's brief yet remarkable acting career left an indelible mark on the film industry which resonates to this day. Born in Indiana in 1931, Dean moved to California with his family at the age of six before returning to Indiana three years later to live on his aunt and uncle's farm. Now a legend of classic Hollywood, his natural Midwestern ruggedness was always part of his charm. Despite his Midwest upbringing, however, his favorite dessert was decidedly Southern.
The book, "James Dean: The Biography" by Val Holley, notes a feature on Dean from his high school newspaper that listed his favorite food as a banana salad. Like a take on Southern banana pudding, banana salad can be considered the staple's lesser-known cousin. Where the pudding enjoys widespread popularity, banana salad is an under-the-radar regional dish. Furthermore, while the classic banana pudding is a sweet dessert (its main ingredients are bananas, vanilla pudding, and vanilla wafers), banana salad can be sweet or on the savory side. There are also a few different ways of preparing it.
Dean's love for the treat came from his aunt, Ortense Winslow, whose version was of the sweet variety. Originally printed in the now out-of-print book, "Recipes for Rebels: In the Kitchen with James Dean" by Gregory Swenson, Winslow's banana salad layers sliced bananas and chopped peanuts with homemade custard as its "dressing." While it's not what you typically think of as a salad, some serve it plated on top of lettuce.
Banana salad is a traditional Kentucky specialty
Of all the retro food trends that are due for a comeback, banana salad dates as far back as 1916, when it was referenced in the Mineral Point Tribune. The recipe is a Kentucky tradition, where it became a standard at church potlucks, cookouts, and diners. It's most prevalent during the holidays when it's an expected crowd-pleaser at Thanksgiving and Christmas. Although James Dean was from Indiana, Kentucky is only one state south. In 1977, a recipe similar to Dean's aunt's was published in an Indiana Amish community cookbook called "Leah's Country Kitchen." The only difference was that Aunt Winslow made her recipe family-style in a serving dish, while the Amish mix was layered into individual sundae glasses (via Vintage Eats of Kayleen Reusser).
Kentucky's The News-Herald discovered that The Blue Boar Cafeteria had been serving banana salad croquettes at its Lexington and Louisville locations since 1931, possibly responsible for popularizing the dish. Alternatively, the paper surmised that it was already a household favorite, spurring the restaurant to add it to its menu.
An adaptation that bypasses cooking the salad's dressing is to simply use mayonnaise. Others prefer Miracle Whip, and the choice between the two is sometimes hotly contested (though the recipe is older than Miracle Whip which wasn't invented until 1933). Some people use mayo thinned with a bit of milk, others mix it with some sugar, and another version adds vinegar for a tangy flavor. Some even combine all three.
Mayo and banana combos from croquettes to sandwiches
In the Bluegrass State, the names banana salad and banana croquettes are used interchangeably. Their ingredients are usually the same, but the difference is in how they're put together. Instead of the salad layered into a container much like Southern banana pudding, banana croquettes are made with split or quartered bananas dipped in the dressing and then rolled in the crushed peanuts, and can be eaten by hand. This version is also known as dressed bananas.
Unlike meat or potato croquettes which are usually deep-fried, banana croquettes are served raw and get their crunch from the peanut coating. These can be made with Aunt Winslow's custard-style dressing or with plain, sweet, or tangy mayo. Another variant swaps the peanuts for crushed cornflakes and the dressing for peanut butter (or mixes them). Serving these on top of lettuce brings the salad concept back into play.
This combo of creamy mayonnaise with sweet bananas hits all the same flavor notes as a Southern banana sandwich. The exact origin of the mayo and banana sandwich is unknown, but it took off during the Great Depression when it made for a fast and affordable meal. It's been a beloved snack or meal throughout the South ever since. To achieve the best and most quintessential banana sammy, use ripe yet still firm bananas and white bread, add peanut butter, and stick with the go-to condiment in the south, Duke's Mayo.