What Does It Mean To Order A Bartender's Handshake?

How do bartenders greet each other? No, it's not the start of a bad joke. It turns out there is actually a way that staff in the drinks community acknowledge fellow workers, and it's known as a bartender's handshake. Rather than being an actual physical handshake, though, it actually — unsurprisingly — involves liquor.

A bartender's handshake refers to a shot of alcohol which is given away free of charge as a greeting between cocktail professionals. It can either be served at the start of the night as a welcome or when the check is delivered. The phrase is synonymous with the bitter Italian liqueur Fernet-Branca, as this was traditionally the shot offered. However, it has since diversified to include a range of different drinks, from bitters to cocktails to mixed drinks, and different cities and countries often have their own specialty.

So if you're not in the trade, can you just walk into a bar and order a bartender's handshake? Well, not by name — unless, of course, you know what the particular drink of choice for industry insiders actually is. But if you want to buy a shot to say thanks to your bartender, or if you're a well-regarded regular, you might just get to find out.

Fernet-Branca is a type of amaro, which refers to a variety of bitter Italian liqueurs. These days, many drinkers are familiar with Fernet-Branca, which is especially associated with San Francisco thanks to its popularity there. For the last 20 or so years in the city's bars, the potent and pungent drink has been a symbol of community and camaraderie, with Fernet-Branca shots becoming a secret code between bartenders — a trend which cemented its reputation as the industry insider's choice.

In 2013, to celebrate the drink's cult status among hospitality pros, Fernet-Branca created a special coin to commemorate what had become a ritual shot — or "handshake" — between bartenders changing shifts. A symbol of a members-only club, the coins have become an instantly recognizable symbol in the cocktail community. Bartenders even compete to design new editions.

Using an amaro is popular in craft cocktail-making; incorporating something like Averno or Cynar is an expert tip to mix up the perfect Manhattan, for example. But if you're thinking that a shot of bracingly bitter Fernet-Branca isn't the easiest of drinks to knock back on its own, then it's worth bearing in mind that the bartender's handshake hasn't always been about pleasure. In fact, its intensely herbal punchiness is part of the slightly sadistic appeal — almost a dare, and something which bartenders know that most regular drinkers wouldn't ordinarily consider ordering.

While Fernet-Branca is still a byword for a bartender's handshake, it's not the only drink you might find industry pros serving one another. Different places have their own rituals, and the choice of beverage is ever-evolving. Some might be considered more enjoyable than others.

In Chicago, the handshake may include the wormwood-based aperitif Jeppson's Malört which, like Fernet-Branca, has a distinctive strong flavor which can prove divisive. In Pittsburgh it could be another amaro, Jannamico Super Punch. In Wisconsin, you could even see a full shot of punchy Angostura bitters — one of the best bitters to transform whiskey cocktails, and usually used in very small doses — being served up. Meanwhile, across the pond in Great Britain, you might come across cocktails such as a classic negroni or a daiquiri as the bartender's handshake, though it is just as likely to be a shot of tequila.

These days, the drinks of choice have become a little less serious, and might feature the likes of Malibu rum or Midori. Even the flavored vodka Stoli Blueberry has had a trending moment. Really, it could be anything. So the next time you ask for a round of shots in a bar, whether it's an achingly cool choice or something a little more playful, you might just find yourself ordering a bartender's handshake without even realizing it.