The Extra Step That Makes Homemade Chilaquiles Taste So Much Better

Chilaquiles are basically the best thing that has ever happened to leftovers. This simple dish dates back to pre-colonial Mexico and was created to use up stale corn tortillas. After they're fried, the chips are doused in a salsa that was probably from last night's dinner, too. Smoky tomato, tangy tomatillo, sweet mole, creamy poblano, and even smooth refried beans can be also used as the sauce to bring new life to tortilla chips (pantry versions even use jarred salsa or canned red or green enchilada sauce).

In the name of convenience, it can also be tempting to reach for a bag of tortilla chips instead of actually frying the tortillas yourself, but you'd only be doing your chilaquiles a disservice. 

The best result is made with sturdy tortilla chips that can withstand being absolutely covered in sauce. When you take the time to make them yourself, the chips retain their slightly crunchy texture, providing a solid base for the dish. That's hard to come by in manufactured store-bought chips that are often too thin or broken apart; when those are introduced to warm salsa, it can create a sad, mushy, spicy, gruel instead of the perfect crispy, slightly soggy texture that makes chilaquiles so special.

Also, while stale tortillas fry up crispier, any corn tortilla is fine (even fresh varieties) and ultimately will be better than a bagged chip. Opt for thicker varieties if you have the option. 

Making your own chips is a breeze — all you need are corn tortillas, oil, and salt! While deep frying can be intimidating to some, it's actually a straightforward process. Tortillas are also a very forgiving ingredient to fry since you are just crisping them up, not cooking something raw. 

The first step is to choose a refined neutral oil with a high smoke point such as safflower, soybean, peanut, corn, vegetable, or canola. Heat the oil in a high-sided saucepan or pot over medium-high using enough so that the tortillas will be fully submerged when you press them down. 

It's best to cut the tortillas into chip-sized triangles at this pre-frying stage. If you are nervous about your skin coming into contact with the grease, you can use tongs or a slotted spoon to lower in the pieces instead of just dropping them in. Giving them a stir helps to ensure they don't stick together, and you will know they're done when the bubbling subsides. As they drain on paper towels, salt the chips while they are still nice and hot so they are seasoned for your chilaquiles.

If you really hate the idea of deep-frying, you can typically buy fresh tortilla chips from Mexican grocery stores or restaurants. Depending on where you shop, there may also be some specialty brands that offer packaged, thick, crunchy, Mexican-style totopos. Just do yourself a favor, and save the typical bargain bags from the chip aisle for snacking.

Whether the salsa you use for chilaquiles is homemade or store-bought, you should fry it too! Frying the salsa deepens the flavor since it caramelizes the vegetables and reduces the water content. As the extra moisture evaporates, the sauce becomes thicker and glossier. When there is too much liquid — naturally coming from the water in the tomatoes, onions, tomatillos, cilantro, and so on — the chips will simply get wet. When you take this quick extra step, however, the reduced salsa more readily coats the chips without immediately making them soggy.

To fry salsa, heat up enough oil to generously coat a large skillet. Use the same oil that you fried the tortilla chips in, and then strain and store whatever is leftover (yes, you can reuse your cooking oil). Once hot, dump your salsa right in. There will be sputtering and splattering, but it will calm down as you stir. The color immediately will begin to darken and the texture will start to thicken. All it needs is a few minutes on the stove, and then you can fold the homemade tortilla chips right in. Finish with Mexican crema, pickled red onions, fresh cilantro, crumbled queso fresco, and creamy avocado for a meal that is perfect any time of day.