The Herb ‌Ina Garten Isn't Sold On

It's hard to comprehend the extent of debate, controversy, skepticism, and opinionated talk that a modest little bay leaf could inspire. Champions of bay leaf insist that it is the most underrated and misunderstood herb in the kitchen whereas those who can't stand it believe that it is likely the most useless herb on the planet that tastes and smells like nothing. There are also those that remain reluctant to pick a side on the great bay leaf debate because they're unsure of what exactly a bay leaf brings to the table.

Ina Garten, it turns out, falls in the last category of bay leaf skeptics. During an interview with "The New Yorker Radio Hour," a caller asked the Barefoot Contessa the all-important question: "Are bay leaves BS?" Pondering on the answer to the question, Garten admitted that she too was unsure about the controversial bay leaf. "I always also wonder whether a bay leaf makes a difference," admitted Garten, adding that although she does use bay leaves in some of her recipes, she has always wanted to try a version of the same recipe without the herb to discern whether or not it really made a difference. Until she does test her recipes with and without bay leaves, however, Garten says that she stands securely in the "I'm not sure" category of bay leaf skeptics.

The Barefoot Contessa isn't the only one not sold on the wonders of bay leaf. In her 2016 article, "The Vast Bay Leaf Conspiracy," Kelly Conaboy called bay leaves BS for their lack of smell and flavor, going against the opinion of the chefs and experts interviewed in the article. Not only did chefs vouch for the fact that bay leaves did indeed have flavor, but they also insisted that it was an important ingredient to build complex layers of flavor in sauces, stews, stocks, brines, and all kinds of cooking liquids. Even Anthony Bourdain happened to be pro bay leaf, calling it an important part of any cream-based sauce or liquid meant for poaching fish. So why then is bay leaf such a dividing herb that leaves the likes of Ina Garten confused about its usefulness?

There are several reasons why bay leave can put people off. For one, whole bay leaves remain stiff, tough, and sharp no matter how long they are cooked, which is why they need to be plucked out before eating. Another mistake people tend to make is that they expect an in-your-face punchy flavor from a bay leaf, which only sets the leaf up for disappointment. On the contrary, bay leaves work more as supporting actors behind the curtains, quietly adding layers of subtle flavors to a dish without overpowering it. To use a bay leaf to its true potential, it's important to understand its flavors and know when and how to cook with it.

Contrary to popular belief, bay leaves do tend to have a lot of flavor, especially depending on where they are from — and not all bay leaves are earthy, bitter, and grassy. The aroma of bay laurel or Turkish bay is reminiscent of tea, Indian bay leaves tend to be more spicy and citrus forward, Caribbean bay leaves taste like a mix of eucalyptus, cinnamon, and citrus peel whereas California bay has a more pronounced flavor of eucalyptus.

While fans wait for Garten to put bay leaves to the test in her own recipes to decide whether they make a difference or not, there's another way to discern what flavor a bay leaf will add to your dish — or if it will add any at all. To test the herb, simply boil a few leaves in plain water. The flavor and aroma that it leaves behind in the water are what the herb truly brings to the table. If you notice a distinct lack of scent, your bay leaves may simply be too old.

One thing to note is that the initial aroma of bay leaves can be very medicine and menthol-like, which is due to the eugenol chemical present in it. In reality, this is one of over 50 flavor compounds present in the leaves, which only come out when they are allowed to simmer for longer. This is why bay leaves are best used in liquid-based dishes that need to be cooked over a long period of time. So while Garten may not be entirely sold on bay leaves, they aren't exactly useless either.