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Watch these little smokies soak up all that beautiful wood smoke and glaze. Meatballs have never looked so good.

Barbecue Hall of Famer, writer and best-selling cookbook author Steven Raichlen has a new volume of recipes out that grilling enthusiasts won’t want to miss. Burners of wood and utilizers of combustion by-products (smoked-food lovers, we’re looking squarely at you) will be thrilled and delighted by Project Smoke, a book dedicated to all things smoke-infused. Happy grilling season!

Perhaps you never thought of smoking meatballs. You haven’t met Jonathan Nguyen, co-owner of Montreal’s lively Le Boucan Smokehouse restaurant. (The name comes from the Franco-Caribbean word for smoke, which, incidentally, gave us the pirate term “buccaneer.”) Nguyen takes his inspiration from Kansas City and Memphis but adds plenty of Quebec touches. “Our grandmothers cooked with apples and sweet spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, which we incorporate into our sauces and rubs,” Nguyen says. The restaurant piles pulled pork and apple barbecue sauce onto its poutine. Even Quebec’s homey meatballs (here enriched with buttermilk and energized with chipotle chilies) come smoked. Le Boucan serves them with maple syrup–inflected mustard barbecue sauce.

Fuel: Like all good Quebec barbecue buffs, the crew at Le Boucan smokes with local maple and apple wood. You’ll need enough wood for 1½ hours of smoking.

Shop: Le Boucan grinds sparerib trimmings for its meatballs, but any ground pork with a 20 to 30 percent fat content will do. Extra points for a heritage breed. Be sure to use pure maple syrup for the sauce; dark amber is usually less expensive and, in my opinion, more flavorful.

What else: For extra smoke flavor, Le Boucan cooks its barbecue sauce in the smoker. You can smoke the sauce alongside the meatballs (conveniently, it also takes 1 to1½ hours) or during a separate smoke session.

Note: For even more flavor, cook the sauce in the smoker, uncovered, with the meatballs. Smoke until thick and richly flavored, 1 to 1½ hours.

Reprinted with permission from Project Smoke