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Top your favorite dessert with a couple of scoops of smoked ice cream (and add bacon to really drive the point home).

Barbecue Hall of Famer, writer and best-selling cookbook author Steven Raichlen has a new volume of recipes out that grilling enthusiasts won’t want to miss. Burners of wood and utilizers of combustion by-products (smoked-food lovers, we’re looking squarely at you) will be thrilled and delighted by Project Smoke, a book dedicated to all things smoke-infused. Happy grilling season!

He’s been called the mad scientist of barbecue. His Michelin-starred restaurant, Asador Etxebarri, in Spain’s Basque country, draws cutting-edge chefs from all over the world. His name is Victor Arguinzoniz, and no food is safe from his one-of-a-kind grills and smokers. Not kokotxa — hake throat, which tastes like fish and slithers down your throat like an oyster. Not butter, which Arguinzoniz smokes over oak to spread on — what else? — grilled bread. Not even milk, which he smokes in a wood-burning oven to make a smoked ice cream that, like everything he serves, will take your breath away.

Ice cream may seem like the last food you’d smoke, but wood smoke gives it a haunting quality. Sure, you could smoke the cream (see page 203) and churn the ice cream from scratch, but there’s a far easier way to do it: Use a charcoal grill or smoker. Or use a handheld smoking device, like a Smoking Gun or Aladin, to smoke your favorite premium commercial ice cream.

Fuel: Wood chips (unsoaked) — enough for 5 minutes of smoking, or hardwood sawdust of choice — enough for 15 minutes of smoking

Shop: To make your life easier, start with a good commercial vanilla ice cream, like Ben & Jerry’s, Häagen-Dazs, Graeter’s, or Talenti.

What else: You have three ways to smoke ice cream. Use a charcoal grill or smoker: You want to add a lot of dry chips to the fire to generate dense smoke quickly before the ice cream melts. (Chips start smoking faster than chunks or logs and dry chips start smoking faster then wet chips.) You place the ice cream in a bowl of ice to keep it from melting while you smoke it. Alternatively, use a handheld smoker.

Reprinted with permission from Project Smoke